Soft floor tiles made from cork or vinyl are an alternative to hard tiles and many people prefer this type of flooring in their bathrooms as soft tiles are comfortable underfoot and easier to lay than hard tiles.  Soft tiles can be laid on a level sub-floor made from either plywood, hardboard or concrete screed.  As with hard bathroom tiles, you'll need to plan your tiling design so you have a central starting point and leave the cut tiles around the edges until last.

Like other bathroom tiles, you can use tile adhesive to fix soft tiles to the floor, or you could buy ones with their own self-adhesive backing.  Before you begin, use a PVA solution to seal the surface of your sub-floor.  Using a pencil and spirit level, mark out your starting line in the usual way.  If using, apply adhesive to the first area you're working on.  Position your first tile and make sure it's in the right place before pressing it firmly into place.  Line up your next tile and position it so it's butted up to the edge of the first tile - don't leave any gap in between the tiles, as you don't grout soft tiles.

Once you've laid the full tiles, cut tiles to fill the gaps around the edges, using a craft knife or scissors.  Use paper templates to cut out curved bits to fit around your vanity cabinet and other bathroom fixtures.  Once your entire bathroom floor has been covered, you'll need to use a sealant over cork tiles to ensure they are watertight.  However, vinyl tiles don't usually require sealing.

If you're attempting to fit your new bathroom yourself, you will need a degree of skill, but you should be able to carry out most of the work yourself, with careful planning and by using the right techniques.  Here we offer basic guidelines for preparation before fitting various types of bathroom fixtures.  You will need to assemble each item before getting it into position and plumbing it in.  Be prepared and make sure you've got the relevant connections for each job before you begin work.

How To Switch Off The Water & Remove The Old Fixtures

Tools Required: Screwdriver, basin wrench, adjustable spanners

Switching Off The Water:

Before you begin any major remodeling project in your bathroom, it's crucial for you to know how to turn off your water supplies.  All houses have stopcocks and valves that enable the water to be turned off in case of an emergency or for plumbing work.  More modern houses tend to have more stopcocks and valves than older ones, including shut-off valves for most fixtures, so you can easily isolate them from the rest of the supply, which are operated either with a small handle or a screwdriver. 

Stopcocks, on the other hand, work like taps to open or close the water supply.  The main stopcock is usually found close to the point where water comes into the house, often under the kitchen sink.  This will control the cold water supply for the whole house - it's either off or on.  There is usually also a hot water tank, which will generally have a separate stopcock to switch off the supply to or from it to stop the need to drain the entire tank.  Sometimes you can stop the supply to the hot water tank, but will need to empty the system to stop the supply from it.

Disconnecting The Sink:

First of all, turn off the water supply to the sink and run both faucets to get rid of any water left in them.  Then use a basin wrench to undo the nuts that connect the supply pipes to the faucet tails.  At this stage, it's possible to replace the faucets by undoing the backnuts.  However, if you want to replace the whole sink, you don't need to disconnect the faucets from the sink.

Next, unscrew the trap to disconnect the waste pipe.  Then, finally, unscrew the screws under the sink that hold it to the wall.  With a pedestal sink, the pedestal column should support the weight of the sink while you do this.  With a wall-mounted sink it's advisable to ask someone to hold onto the sink while you undo the screws.

Disconnecting The Toilet:

Here, we give guidelines on how to remove a modern close-coupled toilet.  The best technique for removing a toilet varies depending on the design, but the main thing to remember is to make sure the water supply to the cistern is turned off. Once you've switched off the water, flush the toilet to empty the remaining water from the cistern, then disconnect the supply pipe. 

Then you need to undo the nuts at the bottom of the cistern, which attach it to the toilet pan.  Remove the cistern lid and unscrew the screws that fix it to the wall.  You can then carefully lift the cistern off the toilet pan and remove it from the bathroom.  To remove the toilet pan, you need to undo the screws or bolts that hold it to the floor, before lifting it out.  The space is now ready for your new toilet.  However, in the meantime, it's a good idea to stuff an old rag into the soil pipe opening to prevent sewer gases escaping into the bathroom.

Disconnecting The Bath Tub:

The technique for removing a bath is similar to that for disconnecting a sink.  You will need to remove the bath panel to gain access to the pipe work beneath.  As always, switch of the water supply before disconnecting the supply and waste pipes.  You'll then need to unscrew the feet supporting the bath, and you might have to dismantle the frame for the bath panel.  After everything's been disconnected and the bath's ready to be removed, you'll probably need a helper to help you lift it out and maneuver it out of the bathroom.

If you don't have tiles covering all your bathroom's walls, it makes sense to put in a tiled splashback above your bathroom sink, as this area is prone to water splashes.  The key to doing a job here is to measure properly to ensure you position your tiles centrally.  You'll need to mark the central point along the back edge of the sink and use a spirit level to draw a vertical line with a pencil here.  Take your first tile and mark the middle of it along its top edge, to help you line it up centrally with your pencil line. 

Apply adhesive to the tile using a notched spreader to make grooves.  Put it carefully into position, lining up the mark on the top with the vertical line.  Work from this central tile outwards, using spacers if you like, to help ensure the gaps between the tiles are the same size.  With the first row of tiles, it's a good idea to slot small pieces of cardboard under each tile to make sure they are all level.  The same applies to the bottom row if you're using border tiles.  If possible, use whole tiles for your splashback, as if you have to cut tiles they will be clearly visible.  Don't worry if the tiles overhang the sides of the sink slightly.

Adding border tiles to the corners of the splashback is a nice finishing touch.  If you need to use an electric tile cutter, wear goggles to protect your eyes and follow the user instructions.  Once all your tiles are up, give the adhesive adequate time to dry and remove all the spacers before grouting.  If you find it difficult to use a spreader on tiles with a raised surface, wear protective gloves and use your fingers to achieve a better finish.  Once the grout is dry and you've cleaned off any surplus bits, fill in the gap between your tiles and the top of the sink with silicone sealant.

In the majority of cases, fitted bathroom units come flat-packed and you need to assemble them yourself.  Most of them are constructed in a similar way, using cam studs and plastic connecting blocks.  So, whether you're installing a run of fitted units or separate bathroom vanity, the principles are the same.  Here is a brief guide to how to install fitted bathroom units.

Begin by laying out all the components on the floor, so you can see if you've got all the necessary pieces, and check you've got the right fittings as well.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions.  Generally, the first thing you have to do is use a hammer to fit plastic connectors into pre-drilled holes along the edges of the panels. 

Next, fit wooden dowels into the relevant holes on the edges of the shelving sections.  Push cam screws into the pre-drilled holes by hand.  Ensure that the open end of the screw thread points to the edge of the shelf or unit section.  The next step is to fit the cam studs to attach to the screws in the corresponding section of the unit.  It might be helpful to use a screwdriver at this point to make sure they are tightly in place.

Put the unit together by matching up the sections and inserting the cam studs into the cam screws and then turning the screws to hold in place.  Once you've assembled the carcass of your unit, it's time to fit the doors.  Most flat-packed units have recessed door hinges, which you can't see when the door is closed.  It should be easy to fit the hinges as the positions will already be marked out.  You will just have to screw the hinges into place.  You can also fix hinge plates to your unit, using the pre-drilled holes.  Check that you've got them the right way up before screwing them down, as some aren't the reversible type.

Attach the doors by attaching the hinges to the hinge plates, before starting to fit the sink section.  Generally, the sink section is screwed onto the plastic connection blocks at the edge of the unit.  You put screws through the blocks into a chipboard section of the sink section.  Of course, the precise design of units varies, so be sure to check the manufacturer's directions.  At this point, many units have a drawer front that is attached using connecting blocks above the doors.

Now it's time to work on the back of the carcass to prepare it to be fixed to the wall.  Many manufacturers provide L-shaped brackets for this, and you will need to screw them into place along the back edge.  To attach the door handles, you'll need to use a drill to drill through the marked holes.  It's a good idea to hold a block of wood on the other side of the door to stop the door from splitting when you drill.  Make sure you use the correct size drill bit, otherwise you will have a loose fit.  Once you've made your holes, you can use a screwdriver to fix the handles to the door.

If you're constructing a run of fitted bathroom cabinets, build each one individually.  Then line them up along the wall and use a spirit level to check they are in alignment, both vertically and horizontally.  Once you're happy with your units, you can do up the connections and secure them against the wall.  If you're fitting a sink vanity unit, prepare the water supply and drainage outlets and install the relevant fittings for the sink.  It often makes sense to fit faucets before installing a unit to the wall, as it will be easier to access the underneath of the sink before it's fitted.

Here's another bathroom remodeling idea:

It's now possible to buy sheets of mosaic tiles that are suitable for use on bathroom floors.  It's obviously much less time-consuming to lay sheets rather than loads of tiny individual tiles.  However, it's important to make sure you lay them as flat as you can to ensure a comfortable surface to walk on in bare feet.  It's essential to make sure your sub-floor is level, with no bumps or protruding nails.  For best results, use a concrete or plywood sub-floor.

Think about the look you want to achieve.  For instance, you could opt for the same type of mosaic tiles as those you've used on your walls, or you could simply use mosaic strips as borders around the edges of larger tiles.  Or you could create your own design by using different colored sheets of tiles, or cutting out individual tiles and replacing them with another color. 

When starting, use a wooden batten positioned about 2 or 3 tile widths from the skirting board, to butt the tiles up against, in case the walls themselves aren't square.  Using a second batten at 90 degrees to the first is useful as a guideline to help get a totally square result.  Using a notched spreader, apply tile adhesive to the first area of floor you're going to tile.  Remove the plastic or paper backing from the first strip of tiles, and move the tiles into position.  Make sure there are no skewed edges and that they are all in alignment.  To flatten the tiles, push a mini roller over the surface.

Lay the subsequent sheets in the same way, separating them with cardboard spacers.  A handy tip to make sure individual tiles don't shift out of position, is to press the edge of a grout spreader into the gaps on the sheets between the tiles.  Once you've completed the main floor, leave it overnight before you remove the battens and cut tile sheets to go round the edges of the room.  As you'll need to stand on the floor to do this, it's necessary to wait for the adhesive to dry first to avoid knocking the tiles out of position. 

Put adhesive on the sub-floor in the usual way and use the usual techniques to flatten and align the tile sheets.  If you've got curved gaps to fill, such as round a sink pedestal, use tile nibblers to remove the necessary bits of each tile.  Then grout your floor in the usual way, taking care to wipe away excess grout before it dries and keep the grout flush with the tiles for a smoother finish.  If you want, you could mix a colored powder with your grout, for a different look.  For example, you could use the same colored grout as your walls for a coordinated finish.  Leave your bathroom floor overnight after grouting to allow it to dry before you walk on it.

Connecting a wall-mounted sink to the water supply and drainage outlet follows the same principles as for a pedestal sink.  However, because the pipes will be visible with this type of bathroom sink, there is more work involved to hide the pipes or make them appear more attractive.  Also, the way in which the sink is fixed to the wall is different.  Try to use a waste system that matches your faucets, ie in chrome, for a more attractive finish.

If you're fitting your sink to a solid wall, you will need to cut out a channel for the pipes.  Using a pencil, mark the proposed position on the sink on the wall and draw lines downward to show where the pipes will go.  Then, make the channel, using a club hammer and bolster chisel.  Take care to wear protective goggles and gloves when making the channel.  When you've made a deep enough channel, the supply pipes can be routed to the correct position.

With hollow walls, pipes can be routed through the cavity, but often it's easier to simply cut out a section of plasterboard rather than making large access holes.  Because the sink will be heavy, it may be necessary to fit and extra nogging in the studwork to adequately support its weight.  You will need to measure carefully and make the exact spots on the wall where the brackets that support the sink will go before fixing one or more noggings in place at the relevant height.  When you've positioned the pipes in your stud wall, place insulation blanket between the stud, nail plasterboard over the area and dry line or plaster it to achieve a smooth finish.  Remember to make access holes so the pipe tails can protrude into the room.

To attach your sink to the wall, use a spirit level and pencil to mark where the brackets need to go, and screw the brackets onto the wall.  On a hollow wall you should be able to screw directly into the wall.  On a solid wall, you will need to use wall plugs with the screws.

Before you hook your sink over the brackets, you'll need to fit the faucets and waste.  The sink will have pre-drilled holes beneath it, through which you can screw it into position.  Once you've got your sink in place, you need to work out how much pipe you need to connect the waste to the trap, then cut out the desired length of pipe and connect it.  Lastly, connect the sink faucets to the hot and cold water supplies and your sink is ready to use.

Before we can use our flashy new shower we've got to put up either a shower door or a curtain, to stop the bathroom getting flooded.  This is even more important in our bathroom's current half-finished state, as we've ripped up the smelly carpet and are back to the bare floorboards for the foreseeable future - we're leaving the floor till we've done all the decorating.  But that's another story…

Right now I'm worried that the floorboards are going to get damaged - even taking a bath we somehow manage to get a few splashes and drips on the floor.  So, I'm keen to find a solution to the problem as soon as possible.  I think we should just get a shower curtain, as that's a quick and easy fix.  I mean, even I can manage to put up a tension curtain rod and hang a shower curtain from it!  I'm also a fan of shower curtains as they are cheap to buy and are nice and colourful - a unique shower curtain can really liven up a bathroom.  I've seen some really pretty fabric ones, which look more expensive than they are, and are totally washable.

However, my other half disagrees.  He's a man with expensive tastes and a penchant for life's luxuries.  Whereas I generally like inexpensive and easy options, he has a more long term view and thinks a glass shower door would be the best solution.  Don't get me wrong, I think glass shower doors look fantastic.  I'm just not sure we need one right now.  My argument is that we should get a shower curtain for the time being, which won't cost very much, and then we've got the option to fit a door in the future.  My priority is to be able to use that new shower quickly!

He on the other hand thinks I'm being impatient, that we've managed with a bath up until now, so a few more days shouldn't make much difference.  To be fair, he has done his research and has figured out that although folding shower doors look very posh and snazzy, given the space restrictions of our bathroom's layout, a sliding one would be better.  I can see his point, that fitting a sliding door to the edge of the tub will be 100% effective at stopping water leaking out, whereas with a shower curtain, spray can sometimes escape if it's not shut properly.  However, I'm still not totally convinced.  He's right of course, I am impatient - and if he doesn't get a shower door fitted in the next few days, I'll be in there myself hanging a good old shower curtain!

If you're replacing an existing bathroom sink, you should be able to use the existing connections to connect the new one to the water supply and waste.  However, if your bathroom remodeling plans involve installing the sink in a new position, you will have to make the necessary adjustments to the supply and waste pipes.

Regardless of which type of faucets and waste you're using, the technique for installing a pedestal sink is the same.  It's easiest to fit the faucets and waste before attaching the sink to the wall, as it's easier to access it this way.  To protect your new sink from chips or scratches, laying a dustsheet on the floor before you begin work is a sensible precaution to take.

To install your bathroom sink faucets, in this case a mono-bloc faucet, put the washer at the base of the faucet to ensure a watertight seal when it's fixed to the sink.  Alternatively, if your faucets don't come with washers, apply silicone sealant to the base before you fix it in place.  Screw the copper supply pipes into the base, again using a rubber washer to act as a seal between the faucet and the threaded part of the supply pipe.  You also have to insert the threaded bolt that holds the faucet in place.  (Some styles of faucets have tails that use braided steel supply tubes to join to the water supply.  The tails are held in place with backnuts on the sink before the supply tube can be connected.  You still have to use a washer or gasket to form a seal between the faucet and the sink).

The next stage is to insert the supply pipes and threaded bolt through the hole in the sink.  On the underneath of the sink, use a lock nut to attach a rubber gasket and retainer ring over the threaded bolt.  You will probably need to tighten the lock nut with pliers, but be careful not to overtighten it.

To fit a pop-up waste, fit a gasket over the waste outlet tail and thread the top section of the waste through its hole in the sink.  If the waste didn't come with a gasket, you can use silicone sealant  instead, but make sure you clean up any excess as soon as you can, as it's much harder to remove when it's dry.  The bottom section can be screwed in from beneath the sink.  Make sure you include a gasket between the waste and the underside of the outlet.  Check that it's screwed in securely, but don't do it up too tight.

Next, push the pop-up waste rod into the hole and screw the waste lever into the base of the waste outlet.  Use a threaded nut to secure the waste lever.  Then use the clamp that's supplied to attach the lever to the pop-up waste rod, by threading them into the retaining holes in the clamp.  Secure them with screws. 

Move the pedestal column into position, to cover the supply pipes.  Then place the sink on top of the pedestal, being very careful when lifting it.  Check with a spirit level that the sink is level and sits flush against the wall.  Attach the sink to the wall with retaining screws  - you might have to use wall plugs on a solid wall.  Use a handheld screwdriver as an electric one may do the screws up too tight causing the basin to crack.

Next, screw the pedestal column to the floor, through the holes at the base, using screws that are long enough to keep it in position but not so long they might damage any pipes under the floor.  The final steps are to put the waste bung in position and adjust it so it creates a watertight seal.  Then connect up the waste outlet and water supply pipes and switch the water back on.

There's a huge range of bathroom vanities to choose from these days, particularly with the number of stores selling bathroom furniture online.  As a result, if you want to give your bathroom a makeover it can be difficult to know where to start when looking for that perfect vanity unit to fit in with your bathroom's new look. 

Due to its function, it's necessary for any sink vanity cabinet to take centre stage in your bathroom's design and layout.  Not only will it be used by every visitor to your bathroom, it's going to be one of the first things people notice on entering the room, so it's got to look good.  A well-chosen vanity that fits in with the character of your home can have a beneficial impact on the appearance of your room and plays an important part in helping you set the mood you desire.

When choosing a new vanity cabinet, its style should be a prime consideration, as it will be a focal point of your bathroom - if it doesn't fit in with the décor and theme of your bathroom, it will be immediately obvious.  For instance, a modern, contemporary style vanity unit is likely to look out of place in a period home.  Likewise, a wooden furniture-style vanity cabinet with decorative features such as bun feet is going to be more in keeping in a traditionally decorated bathroom than in a fashionable new apartment.

As well as style, color is an important factor to consider, as a bad choice of color can let down the appearance of your whole room.  To do your bathroom justice and show it off to its full potential, think carefully about what color vanity would look best with your bathroom wall cabinets and other furniture.  Remember that lighter colors can be used to your advantage in a small bathroom to help open up the space and make it appear less cramped.  In general, bathroom vanity cabinets in darker wood tones such as walnut or mahogany are best suited to larger bathrooms, where they can look luxurious and bring a touch of grandeur to the room.

Aesthetics aside, it's essential to take into account the practical aspect of your vanity's design.  There's little point in spending money on a beautifully crafted vanity cabinet if it has hardly any storage space and your vanity top will end up getting cluttered.  It's crucial to take careful measurements of the space available and buy a vanity that's large enough to meet your storage requirements, but compact enough to fit comfortably into your bathroom.  Think about what sort of items tend to clutter up your countertops and try to find a vanity that's equipped to store them.  For instance, shelving is ideal for bottles of toiletries, whereas drawers with divided compartments are great from holding cosmetics, hair accessories and other small bits and bobs.

With some thought and planning, you should be able to find a bathroom vanity that fits in with your bathroom's new image and your budget, and should complete your bathroom's makeover.  Visit www.showers-bathrooms.com for more bathroom decorating tips.

Although tiles are an ideal covering for bathroom walls, over the years they will inevitably show signs of wear and tear.  Rather than retiling, there are various techniques you can use to make repairs and improve the appearance of your tiles.

Regrouting
Over time, high moisture levels and general wear and tear can cause the grout in your tile joints to become discolored.  But regrouting can be all that's needed to give your tiles a makeover and get them looking good as new again.

First, you'll need to dig out the old grout, using a grout raker and being careful not to scratch the tiles.  Then get rid of the excess dust by wiping down the surfaces and using a vacuum cleaner to remove the debris from the cracks.  Apply the new grout in the usual way.

Grout Reviver
Using grout reviver is a quicker and simpler alternative to regrouting, although it's a more temporary fix and the results won't last as long as new grout.  To use grout reviver, you'll need to give your tiles a good clean and make sure the surface is totally dry.  Then apply the reviver to all the joints, in much the same way you would if you were painting.  Use a damp sponge to clean off any excess.  As always, follow the manufacturer instructions to achieve the best finish.

Replacing A Broken Tile
Occasionally the odd tile will get accidentally cracked.  If you've still got some leftover tiles from when the bathroom was originally tiled, or you manage to find an exact match, it's possible to replace a broken tile.  Firstly, you'll need to remove the damaged tile.  Wearing goggles to protect your eyes, drill a few holes into the tile to weaken it, using a tile or masonry drill bit.  Take care not to get the drill near the surrounding tiles.  Then use a grout raker to loosen the grout around the edge of the broken tile. 

Remove the tile carefully, using a hammer and chisel.  Then use a scraper to scrape off the old tile adhesive from the wall beneath.  Then apply fresh adhesive and slot in your new tile.  Use spacers at right angles to the tile surface to keep a consistent gap round the edges.  Check that the tile sits flush with the old ones, by holding a batten across the surface.  If necessary, you'll need to adjust the amount of adhesive.  Once the adhesive has been allowed to dry, you can remove the spacers and grout the joints in the usual way.