If you're replacing an existing bathroom sink, you should be able to use the existing connections to connect the new one to the water supply and waste.  However, if your bathroom remodeling plans involve installing the sink in a new position, you will have to make the necessary adjustments to the supply and waste pipes.

Regardless of which type of faucets and waste you're using, the technique for installing a pedestal sink is the same.  It's easiest to fit the faucets and waste before attaching the sink to the wall, as it's easier to access it this way.  To protect your new sink from chips or scratches, laying a dustsheet on the floor before you begin work is a sensible precaution to take.

To install your bathroom sink faucets, in this case a mono-bloc faucet, put the washer at the base of the faucet to ensure a watertight seal when it's fixed to the sink.  Alternatively, if your faucets don't come with washers, apply silicone sealant to the base before you fix it in place.  Screw the copper supply pipes into the base, again using a rubber washer to act as a seal between the faucet and the threaded part of the supply pipe.  You also have to insert the threaded bolt that holds the faucet in place.  (Some styles of faucets have tails that use braided steel supply tubes to join to the water supply.  The tails are held in place with backnuts on the sink before the supply tube can be connected.  You still have to use a washer or gasket to form a seal between the faucet and the sink).

The next stage is to insert the supply pipes and threaded bolt through the hole in the sink.  On the underneath of the sink, use a lock nut to attach a rubber gasket and retainer ring over the threaded bolt.  You will probably need to tighten the lock nut with pliers, but be careful not to overtighten it.

To fit a pop-up waste, fit a gasket over the waste outlet tail and thread the top section of the waste through its hole in the sink.  If the waste didn't come with a gasket, you can use silicone sealant  instead, but make sure you clean up any excess as soon as you can, as it's much harder to remove when it's dry.  The bottom section can be screwed in from beneath the sink.  Make sure you include a gasket between the waste and the underside of the outlet.  Check that it's screwed in securely, but don't do it up too tight.

Next, push the pop-up waste rod into the hole and screw the waste lever into the base of the waste outlet.  Use a threaded nut to secure the waste lever.  Then use the clamp that's supplied to attach the lever to the pop-up waste rod, by threading them into the retaining holes in the clamp.  Secure them with screws. 

Move the pedestal column into position, to cover the supply pipes.  Then place the sink on top of the pedestal, being very careful when lifting it.  Check with a spirit level that the sink is level and sits flush against the wall.  Attach the sink to the wall with retaining screws  - you might have to use wall plugs on a solid wall.  Use a handheld screwdriver as an electric one may do the screws up too tight causing the basin to crack.

Next, screw the pedestal column to the floor, through the holes at the base, using screws that are long enough to keep it in position but not so long they might damage any pipes under the floor.  The final steps are to put the waste bung in position and adjust it so it creates a watertight seal.  Then connect up the waste outlet and water supply pipes and switch the water back on.